Keys, VIN#s and
Other Safety Issues

There has been an article circulating via email stating that crooks can get copies of your vehicle's keys if they can copy down the VIN#. You can not get a key that easy. You have to bring the title or other proof of ownership, a driver license that matches the title and complete a form at the dealership (in most cases).

Even I, who have a long and good relationship with many dealers can not get a key for a car in the shop without the owner going through this process. I had to get some for my wife's truck last year and even though the guy at the dealer knew me and that I did own the truck I still had to comply.

There are very strict federal rules about the security of keys and key codes for electronic keys. In addition most cars since about 2000 have a passive anti theft system from the factory. The chip or transponder in the head of the key has to "talk" to the cars computer to enable starting. These codes are programmed into the key. If you have one good key you can program another fairly easily, but if you do not have a working key it requires a factory level scan tool with proprietary software to recode the key. Many cars, like Fords, require you to program 2 keys at a time if you have no good key to begin with.

Another myth is that a car thief with a frequency scanner can intercept your remote code when you open the doors with your fob. On factory systems the remote door lock function is entirely separate from the anti theft system. They may be able to intercept the door unlock code, but the code for the anti theft is very short range. In most cases the key has to be in the lock cylinder for the system to read it. Even on systems with the keyless ignitions, where you leave the key in you pocket, the range is very short, maybe 3 feet at the most. The thief would have to be standing at your shoulder to intercept it.

On cars with the factory remote start that is gaining popularity now you are still protected. Even if someone could intercept the start code from your transmitter and start your car, the steering wheel and shifter will not unlock until the computer receives a valid key code.

The real danger is in aftermarket alarm and remote start systems. They do not always have these built-in protections and often will disable what is already there to make the remote start feature operate. I have seen cars with an aftermarket remote start system where an extra key was taped to the control box under the dash to keep the anti theft system in the enabled mode all the time. This allowed the remote start feature to work without having to insert a key but totally eliminated any protection against theft.

While most late cars come with an entry alarm system some lower end models do not. If you want to add an aftermarket alarm on a late model car with the passive anti theft be sure to add only the perimeter entry system. Do not add an additional starter or ignition interlock, it will only cause problems later on and may disable the very good system already in place.

I would avoid remote starter systems entirely unless the car is made for one. Check your owner manual for this information.

If you are on the road much you are bound to have noticed the ever growing number of RV's traveling the highway. From young couples, to retired full timers, folks are hitting the road more and taking their second home with them.

My wife and I have been RV'ers for about 10 years and we do enjoy the freedom of being at home wherever our day's drive ends. We started out with a diesel pusher and have just recently gone to a 5th wheel trailer and diesel tow vehicle.

Whether you are traveling in a class A motor home, or pulling a trailer, there are some things that you should be aware of.

The tow vehicle for a trailer is working at high output most of the time that the trailer is behind it. Many of the specifications for service have to be shortened considerably or you are inviting a serious breakdown at a most inconvenient time. Fluids like the transmission fluid, differential lube and engine oil are subjected to severe duty stresses as you cruise down the highway with 8 to 12 thousand pounds of travel trailer hitched up.

Truck suspension components, brakes, tires and cooling system become that much more critical when you are towing almost twice the weight of the truck.

One of the things we recommend is that you shorten the service interval by half when you are using the truck to tow. During the winter months, when the vehicle is most likely used more as a passenger car, the normal service schedule would be ok.
Synthetic fluids and lubes are another move in the right direction. The synthetics are much more stable in high temperature situations. They transfer heat better, are more cohesive and will handle the stress of pulling your house down the road.
Another thing to consider is that BG Products offers a protection plan that will apply to RV tow vehicles and can provide a warranty on many of the fluid lubricated parts, including the engine. This warranty can extend the coverage to 150,000 miles and would be a great benefit if you had a major problem on the road.

If you are driving the class A motor home and towing a "dingy" car there are factors to consider there too. While the odometer may not be racking up the miles you car is still accumulating them. The towed car's bearings and suspension will wear mile for mile with the RV that is towing it and on many of the newer towing rigs the towed cars brakes operate too, causing them to wear.

Whenever you have a towed vehicle add the motor homes mileage to the service mileage of the towed car for things like brakes, bearings, tires and suspension at least.

RV'ing is a great way to spend time. Whether you are a couple wanting time together or a young family building memories, the American roadway is a fantastic place to do it.

I have found that the secret of a successful trip is in the planning. In the ten years that Janice and I have travel in RV's we have never (knock on wood) had a breakdown on the road. I wish you just as good luck in your travels.